Chicken rice. The entire bird, simmered whole then sliced with a cleaver, arranged on a plate with a mound of steamed rice, garnished with sprigs of coriander and anointed with dabs of thick soy and piquant ginger sauce. And served with a bowl of light, fragrant broth -- chicken bouillon, of course. This is more than just a simple, tasty meal; for millions of people it's a way of life.

The Hainanese take the credit for the original recipe, but it is in Southeast Asia that chicken rice has come into its own. In Singapore, jifan is considered the national dish; but you'll find it in similar form throughout the region, wherever the Chinese diaspora has made its home.

Not that you need to travel that far to find it. Last week, we sat down to lunch on this classic dish at two different places -- both within strolling distance of Roppongi Hills but with very contrasting approaches.