Just because the rest of the country is heading back to work at the fag end of this cool summer doesn't mean the beach season is over. In fact, now that the crowds are thinning out, this is probably the best time to plan a day trip (or overnight) down to the Shonan "Riviera" -- that stretch of Kanagawa shoreline between Hiratsuka and Hayama. Some people go for the surf (such as it is); others just to feel the breeze off the ocean and the sand between their toes. But for us, the ultimate pleasure is to sit by the sea, sundowner in hand, listening to the waves and watching the light fading over the far-off Izu Peninsula. And then, appetites suitably sharpened by the cool evening air, we repair for a leisurely dinner, preferably right by the ocean.

The wild, wide dunes to the west of Enoshima are great for picnics and barbecues -- too bad there are no restaurants or bars anywhere close to the sea. So instead, we ride the Enoden train in the other direction to Shichirigahama, where the roadside watering holes look right out over Sagami Bay. The choices range from anodyne family restaurants and fast-food joints (including perhaps the best-situated Burger King in all of Japan) to funky, idiosyncratic bars where surfers and bikers congregate. For food and mood, though, you won't find anywhere better than Taverna Rondino.

This long-established Italian ristoranti is one of the best in the prefecture and it boasts a beachfront vista that any restaurateur in Tokyo would kill for. The antipasti are superior and so are the seafood dishes. We love to nibble on their focaccia and crisp pizza bianco as we wait for our order of sea bass grilled with fresh rosemary and sea salt. The staff have all trained in Italy, and they make regular trips to Rome in the off-season to brush up on their cooking skills.