While the eyes of the world -- or at least the Tokyo-centric portion of the planet -- have been fixed on the unveiling of the massive Roppongi Hills complex, our attention was focused on another new arrival, not so far away but on a totally different scale. For us, the main event last month was the opening of chef Masahito Ueki's new place, Studio J.

Anyone who has followed this column over the years will be aware that we are major fans of Ueki's cooking, and his intimate super-bistro, Restaurant J, is one of our favorite places to eat in the whole city. But part of its charm is that it's tucked away where only those in the know will find it. So we were eager to see how Ueki's sophisticated food and understated, keep-it-simple aesthetic would fare in Roppongi, the brash belly of the beast.

With its clean, uncluttered lines and simple, modern furnishings, Studio J resembles less an artist's studio than a chic gallery, an effect that is heightened by the striking black-and-white lithographs of giant birds' eggs that line the walls of the two small dining rooms. Gray blinds filter out the light from the street. The kitchen is hidden away, glimpsed only through a window as you enter. That means there's nothing to distract you from the essentials of the evening -- your dining partner(s) and the food in front of you.