Spring is here -- time to head for the hills. And if you take the train south from Tokyo, the first topography of any significance you're likely to encounter will be that swathe of green that rings the genteel burg of Kamakura. A century or so ago, these hillocks were referred to (with no hint of irony) as the Kamakura Alps. But an invigorating stroll along the forest trails above the ancient capital does not require lederhosen and alpenstock.

No need, either, to tote a rucksack packed with sausage and sauerkraut. If you find yourself, as we did last week, close to the imposing wooden gates of Kencho-ji, the largest of the major Zen temples in Kita-Kamakura, you can procure yourself a lunch of much greater delicacy -- and one far more suited to the surroundings -- at the nearby Hachinoki Honten.

It's a low-slung building clad in weathered timbers, facing right onto the main road but so modest in scale that it would be easy to walk past and scarcely register its presence. Stoop under the low eaves with their quaint fringe of dried leaves and slide back the front door. You will be greeted with due formality by a matron dressed in an understated silk kimono who, if you have not booked your meal in advance, will explain your options and take your order there and then.