Nobody would claim that Shibuya is among the most attractive neighborhoods of this metropolis. And yet, as with so many other less than salubrious districts, when viewed at night from a suitable distance -- say 14 stories above the ground -- it does take on an undeniable glow that could almost be called romantic.

Spending the evening in some high-rise restaurant is perhaps the ultimate escape from reality, not only from the hustle and sleaze of street life but also from global events that are becoming increasingly gloomy. And that is as good a reason as any for checking out the newest branch of Gonpachi, which along with its sister restaurant Legato occupies the upper floors of the new E. Space Tower, high above the upper reaches of Dogenzaka, known to most of us as Love Hotel Hill.

But there are plenty of other good reasons, too -- starting with the dramatic, glass-enclosed elevator ride up the outside of this gleaming edifice. The building itself is so new it still looks half-empty. But step through the sturdy wooden gateway that is the entrance to Gonpachi and you find yourself in a micro-environment of comforting noise, warmth and bustle.