Hiroshi Matsusaki is not a big Disney-film fan. His imagination was captured, however, when he read a Japanese translation of "Peter Pan" -- understandable for a child whose life's adventures began in the lush natural reaches of Kyushu, before his family moved on to Saitama.

Many years later, when he was choosing a name for his bar, an English friend explained that Nai Nai Jima was the Japanese translation of Never Never Land. And so it was that Matsusaki's hideaway in Shimokitazawa was christened -- faithful to the original English -- 25 years ago. And it is a magical land. While other bars have come and gone, Never Never Land still sits atop a crumbling two-story building, where it has remained virtually unchanged; and yet the vibe is constantly recharged by an ever-expanding group of regulars.

Never Never Land feels like a room in a private home, with knickknacks hugging every surface and tucked into every corner. Except for the vases of fresh flowers and the buildup of nicotine stains on the art posters lining the walls, most of these ornaments have remained the same during my 12 years of patronage. A string of fairy lights continues to adorn the window facing the street. A fish tank still sits bubbling quietly in a corner.