It is traditional for this column to supply a Nature Travel horror story as close to Halloween as scheduling permits. Halloween is still some time away. But this one's most definitely a two-part column. So forgive us for starting early.

News photo
An "elephant-proof" ablution area in the Savuti region of Chobe National Park.

There are ways to "do" Chobe National Park in the southern African nation of Botswana. Smart ways. And the dumb way.