The Vietnamese know all about hot weather. And one of their ways of dealing with the heat has been to make their food light and appetizing. Using plenty of aromatic herbs, colorful garnishes and condiments that are fragrant yet not overwhelming to the palate, theirs is the most subtle cuisine in all of Southeast Asia.

No doubt that is why it dovetails so well with both the French and Japanese sensibilities. One chef who has recognized this felicitous alignment is Yutaka Ishinabe. Although best known for the altitude of his toque and his TV appearances as an Iron Chef, his media savvy does not in any way detract from his culinary skills. The decor in his two Queen Alice French restaurants may not be to everyone's taste -- he targets a specific demographic (predominantly women of a certain age and spending power) -- but there's no faulting the cuisine.

So it was not surprising that when Ishinabe turned his attention and skills to Vietnamese food, the results were equally successful. After he launched Vietnam Alice three years ago, on the top floor of the Printemps department store in Yurakucho, there were always long lines of people waiting hopefully outside.