No matter their relative prowess on the soccer field, there can be no disputing which of the nations that reached the semifinal of the World Cup would deserve to be champions, were the title decided on culinary merit alone. With all respect to the gastronomy of Germany, Brazil and South Korea, none can rival the range and subtlety found in the finest Turkish cooking.

This may not be immediately obvious here in Tokyo, since most of our Turkish restaurants have tended to position themselves at the lower end of the spectrum, producing simple home cooking that is straightforward and satisfying but without great elaboration. But now, since Harem opened in Gaienmae toward the end of last year, we have a chance to sample the culture and cuisine of Turkey at a rather higher level of sophistication.

You can tell at a glance that Harem is not just another "ethnic" eatery. There are no maps or tourist office posters on the wall, no hubble-bubble pipes and other paraphernalia, and absolutely no belly dancing. Likewise they have shunned the over-the-top "Aladdin's Cave" approach to interior decor, preferring instead a chic, restrained aesthetic.