Over the last couple of years, one of our favorite watering holes in Ginza has been the curiously named (and hard to find) Grape Gumbo, a down-to-earth wine bar with a no-frills, izakaya ambience and Euro-bistro trencherman fare to match. So when we heard that the head chef there, Touru Wachi, had left to set up his own operation, our ears pricked up in happy anticipation.

We have not been disappointed. Chef Wachi has taken the same basic concept -- straightforward, hearty food, an interesting wine list and a casual setting -- but given it a stylish look more worthy of his new address at the Shinbashi end of Namiki-dori.

Mardi Gras, which opened in September, occupies a long, narrow basement reached by a deep flight of stairs leading straight from the street. The interior is simple but chic -- whitewashed, adobe-look walls; a matte-black ceiling with exposed air ducts; a couple of chunky wooden shelves running along the length of the premises, which are filling up fast with empty wine bottles; and wooden furniture that has not sacrificed comfort for the sake of design.