The yearend holiday season brings a flurry of parties, rich dinners and the popping of corks. For those of us who love wine, this time of year presents a few dilemmas as well. There's the torture of finding the right bottle to give the boss or a gourmand in-law who has tried everything. Then we mull over the most delicious wines for a memorable Christmas or New Year's Eve with friends. Maybe we hunt, too, for the best Champagne for a romantic winter te^te-a-te^te. Wine creates a sense of occasion; it is the ribbon that ties together feasts, great and small.

Vineland typically focuses on wines in the 1,000-3,500 yen range. During the holiday season, however, people often splurge on something special. We asked experts in Tokyo to propose three wines (sparkling, white and red), not to exceed 5,000 yen/bottle, and a favorite dish to accompany them. Today, and in the next Vineland column (Dec. 16), we will feature their wine tips for gift-giving and holiday pleasure.

You might opt to avoid the shopping rush by buying wines online. One of the largest Internet wine shops is e-Shopping! Wine ( www.eswine.co.jp ). Tokyo wine writer Takuya Kusuda is part of the shop's team. To start a holiday evening, he suggests Bollinger Special Cuvee Champagne, served with shellfish sashimi, carpaccio or roast chicken. "It's Agent 007's Champagne with a traditional, rich taste," Kusuda says. The suggested retail price is 6,000 yen; e-Shopping! Wine offers it for 3,800 yen. It's also available at local department stores (including Tokyu Shibuya, [03] 3477-3111) for between 4,000 yen and 5,500 yen.