Shinbotchi's take on the ancient art of sushi is much the same approach that the rag trade of back-street Harajuku adopts toward the world of fashion.
Neither haute cuisine nor haute couture figure in the equation in this part of town. The kids don't hold much with tradition. They want the look, but they certainly don't want to stand (or even slouch) on anything resembling ceremony.
Shinbotchi fits that bill just right. It has a veneer that is suitably chic and contemporary -- the basement of a small, modern, concrete mini-mall, housing boutiques, hair salons and designers' offices. Step inside, however, and you find it's as friendly and easygoing as your local izakaya.