You don't have to go far in Tokyo for good Thai restaurants these days. But when it comes to tracking down no-frills, down-home cooking -- the kind of simple snacks prepared by countless market stalls and sidewalk eateries in Bangkok -- then it pays to dig deep. Some of the best Thai street food is served below ground level.

Finding the entrance to Kao Tai is not so hard, just off the main drag in Takadanobaba. Negotiating the steep flight of stairs down to the dining room, on the other hand, requires strong legs and a sober grip. Once you're installed there, elbow to elbow at the counter or wedged in at one of the low tables, it feels so friendly you're loathe to ever leave.

Despite the tourist posters plastered on the walls, Kao Tai still retains the layout and easygoing feel of the izakaya that once used to call this basement home. It's quite legitimate to book in here for a properly structured meal (starters, main course and dessert), but most people prefer to prop themselves up with a drink or three, to nibble and snack the evening away.