Delizioso Italia is a pretty unimaginative (and possibly ungrammatical) name for a restaurant. But there's very little else that feels out of place here. It's not a clone of the cheap-chic Capricciosa concept but a fine and friendly trattoria that turns out some highly enjoyable cucina.

After eating well there earlier in the year, we'd been waiting for summer to come round in anticipation of some excellent open-air dining. Delizioso's shrub-enclosed frontage peers out onto a quiet alley. That means not only is it quiet and dark outside, but you don't have to worry about unwanted diesel particulates garnishing your pasta along with the parmigiano.

The interior is decked out in the style of a rustic Tuscan tavern, with beams and brickwork and heavy cast-iron chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. There's even a crossbow propped up on a lintel at the back. Hams and strings of garlic dangle above the long counter that separates the kitchen work space from the dining area.