Call it what you like -- drawing power, charisma, sex appeal or the Koizumi quality -- new restaurants need that extra something to succeed, no less than populist politicians with big, Beethoven-look hair. Zetton, the hot new place just up from Shibuya-bashi in Ebisu, has just the right sort of buzz. In fact, so strongly does it emanate out onto the street that few people find it possible to walk past without pausing to peer inside, look at the menu, pick up a card and make a mental note to come back and check it out soon.

What catches your eye first is the plant-laden wooden deck right by the sidewalk. This is just for show so far, not for mellow outdoor summer dining (though we're hoping this may change later in the season). However, it is the layout of the interior that grabs the imagination.

Cleverly broken up into different levels to disguise what is essentially a plain concrete box, Zetton feels bigger than its actual floor area. There are two recessed areas by the door. Further inside are more tables and a short counter along the well-stocked bar. A cozy, darkened room with leatherette banquettes provides privacy for small groups at the back, and an elevated tatami space set close to the ceiling like a loft is big enough to hold eight people in cross-legged comfort.