All things must pass -- especially, it seems, the good stuff. So a final farewell, then, to the old Azabu-Juban we used to know and love, with its funky, friendly mom 'n' pop stores, cheap nomiya and overpriced wine bars, and its faintly musty smells of onsen and kimchi.

There are no doubt plenty of fogeys bewailing the intrusion of the new subway line on what they see as one of Tokyo's last untouched little village communities. Not us, though. We're all in favor of improved infrastructure -- especially if it means it's easier to check out the rash of chic new eating places that have been opening up down in the Juban.

You can't help but turn your head as you go past Noodles. No prizes for guessing what's on the menu, but it's certainly no ordinary slurp-and-run operation. This is a noodle joint for the Nobu generation.