BRUGES, Belgium -- For a small city, many things are surprisingly big in Bruges.
The facades of the restaurants and shops facing onto the vast expanse of the market square are slowly taking on the dusty reds and oranges of the setting sun, while the shadow of the massive Belfort tower inches across the cobbles. The 800-year-old octagonal spire is visible far across the city's surrounding polders and its 47 bells weigh 27 tons.
More impressive, however, are the portions served up in Bruges's restaurants. Sitting on the terrace of La Civiere d'Or I can barely lift the Grunbergen Blond, served in a thick, dimpled liter glass, to my lips. The steaming mussels are served in huge black saucepans.
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