It's getting to be that time of year when it feels as if this part of Japan has been towed down to Southeast Asia and temporarily moored somewhere in the Mekong Delta. If only that were so. For us it's not the muggy weather and tropical downpours that we complain about -- it's the dearth of creative, well-prepared Vietnamese food in this city.

That is why we had such high hopes when Cyclo opened a couple of months ago. All the omens looked favorable: a head chef who has paid his dues in Vietnam; a good, central location; and a stylish self-confidence that promises far more than just another Tokyo take on "ethnic" dining.

The premises certainly look the part, blending design motifs from colonial Indochina with a sense of contemporary chic. The main dining room is wide and spacious, with walls in a pastel beige wash and subtle lighting that illuminates the tables not the diners' faces. Two small private chambers are fitted out with Chinese-style circular tables. Larger parties convene in a modern space with a glass front that is opened in good weather. The furniture is fashionably uncomfortable -- apart from the two low tables set with retro-look padded armchairs.