Special to The Japan Times In the early years of the last century, the wife of a French colonial doctor in Laos wrote in her journal, "Oh! What a delightful paradise. The fierce barrier of the stream protects this country from the progress and ambition of which it has no need. Will Luang Prabang be, in our century of exact sciences, of quick profits, of victory by money, the refuge of the last dreamers?"
Yes, would be the answer, nearly 100 years later. Still, paradises rest upon the past and last only so long as progress is kept at bay. So far, development, investment and exploitation have been successfully resisted in Laos. Or perhaps it is just that the country is late in joining the roster of progressives.
Laos was reopened to tourists in 1989, and its ancient capital, Luang Prabang, was rendered generally accessible only 10 years later when, in December, a new air route, Bangkok-Luang Prabang, was initiated. Progress -- meaning development and tourism -- has consequently not yet completely had its way.