Finally we can put behind us the Christmas leftovers and the Hogmanay hangovers (not to mention the Y2chaos that never was) and assume some semblance of normality. Don't get the wrong idea -- we certainly put away our fair share of mince pies and Gaultier-clad millennial champagne over the holidays. But that just makes it even more of a relief to return to the simpler pleasures of the Japanese winter. What's called for now is hearty, warming fare: stick-to-your-ribs udon and bubbling nabe hot pots -- preferably both at the same time.

There are plenty of basic noodle joints to choose from around town. But if you're looking for somewhere rather more special, you can't do better than a visit to Torijaya.

With its traditional wood-clad facade and impeccable adherence to protocol, you would think this place harks back to the bygone days when Kagurazaka was one of Tokyo's premier entertainment districts. However, unlike the venerable and entirely wonderful Iseto just along the alley, Torijaya is a relative newcomer -- and (because it follows the delicate gastronomic creed of Kyoto and the Kansai region) still very much an outsider.