OTAFUKU: Joy of Japan, by Amy Sylvester Katoh, photographs by Yutaka Sato. Singapore: Tuttle/Periplus, bilingual (English and Japanese), 2005, 192 pp., many illustrations, 1,700 yen (cloth).

Most of us know Otafuku without knowing her name. She is the full-faced folk figure we see all around us in Japan, perhaps most commonly in the kitchen or in the traditional restaurant. Folklorist Haruo Misumi in an encyclopedia entry has called her "plump, rosy-cheeked," adding that "her well-fed look symbolizes prosperity."

He also identifies her mainly in her form as a mask, often on sale during traditional festivals. And, though later incarnations have given her a plump, round body, it is by the face that we know her.

This smiling, satisfied countenance was, says Misumi, originally a Kyogen mask. Under the name of Oto she portrayed the simple domestic virtue of plenty. As Okame she is still seen in shrine dances and in temple folk plays. She even has a small role in the kabuki.