This is my first time in Ogikubo, a hole just left of the heart of Tokyo, and hopefully my last. There is nothing here but grayness and cold. I see no beer, hear no talk of beer and, worst of all, taste no beer!

"Let's go to a bar," I urge Supersnazz, as the band members lead me into a cafe with tables the size of frisbees. It may be next to Rinky Dink Studios, where they've been rehearsing, but I'm having none of it.

"These tables are barely big enough to place an espresso, let alone conduct an interview," I whine. OK, so the tables are tiny, but the place doesn't serve beer and as most Japanese bands either seem to have little to say or (more likely) are too shy to say it, alcohol can be a very effective tongue-loosening device.