It is midmorning on Zushi beach in Kanagawa Prefecture, and all is well with Jellyfish, scented with new-cut wood and offering more than a hint of the elusive.

Jellyfish is the name of a new "umi no ie" ("sea house") built by a Chinese-Japanese who goes by the name of "Boss." He thought it would be fun to have a bar-cum-restaurant to use as a base for his own marine activities, and offer his Labrador retriever the luxury of a shower after a dip in the ocean. But Boss keeps a low profile. He's in a new phase, not interested in talking about the past.

Siavash is only relatively more forthcoming. Friendly but laid back, he's been up since 8 a.m., helping clear the beach of debris left over from the annual fireworks of the night before (especially spectacular this year, since Zushi is celebrating 50 years of city status). "Everyone was out picking up garbage. It looks good now, right?" Right. The beach is spotless. Potted palms blow green and fresh, and there is ambient music to accompany my chamomile tea.