We are sitting in Enjoy! House, a small pub cum club in Ebisu. There is hardly room to swing a cat, yet somehow a bar, tables and a minuscule dance floor are all squeezed in. The decor is ethnic meets neo-hippie; the service foreigner-friendly; the food good.

"It's one of our favorite places," agree Americans Dan Riney and Gia Payne, who as authors of "Tokyo Pub Crawler: His & Her Bar Guide" have clear memories of when they took their first drink.

"I sipped beer at junior high school," admits Dan.