Welcome to Don Carmine in Tokyo's Nishi-Azabu, opened April 10 and described by its founders as an Italian restaurant with attitude.

"Il padrino" -- the godfather/patron -- is the Italian restaurateur Carmine Cozzolino. Consigliere -- adviser/counselor -- is Mr. Conviviality himself, the journalist/film reviewer and famed "insultant" Don Morton. Together they work as a team, with Carmine calling by on occasion to whip everyone into line, and even whip up some dishes too. Don is there most evenings to ensure customers are kept happy.

Insultant?