Although aficionados tend to wax lyrical over the taste of their favorite tipples, shochu (a vodka-like spirit distilled from various grains) is always drunk swamped in a variety of mixes.

"Flavor is not important!" exclaims Koichi Sato, 30, the owner and operator of HoRo HoRo, a spacious bar and restaurant in Doshi Village, Yamanashi Prefecture. On being asked to list the best-tasting brands of shochu, he dutifully named Jinro, Legend and Triangle, but stressed that low price, versatility and alcoholic strength account for the drink's popularity.

Although the popularity of shochu was already rising by the end of the bubble years, its affordability boosted its appeal further after the bubble burst.