Right now, Diane Brown is shoveling snow. She lives 10 km from the center of Sapporo, where she finds it both amusing and annoying that so much of the drudgery of local life has been officially labeled women's work. "The shovel I use is called a 'Mamadump' because it's mums who mostly clear the white stuff, not the men; they go off to work."

This bubbly Meg Ryan/Bette Midler/Monica Lewinsky look-alike (her description, not mine) has spent the last 12 years living up to the title "Japagaijin," as coined by a friend -- meaning, a "Japanesey" foreigner. It helps that Diane is from Southern California, with a sunny optimistic view that helps make life on Japan's northernmost island a pleasure rather than a pain.

"Back home we have no seasons," she explains over the phone, 15-month-old Hannah Rose babbling on her knee. "To experience spring, summer, autumn and winter is such a joy. I'd never seen leaves change color and fall until I came here."