There are three things that stir the heart of every true Tokyoite: sento (public baths), mazelike roji (alleys) and matsuri (festivals). Over the last couple of decades, all three have been gradually fading from the city scene, though there are still pockets in the megalopolis where they can be found in traditional harmony.
These are called shitamachi (old downtown) and are the cause of big smiles, nostalgic sighs and feelings of inner satisfaction that Tokyo still has a little of its "true self" left.