It looks scary at first -- more like Godzilla's back than like something you'd eat. Nor does the first taste come easy. A bite sends a bitter flavor along the tongue.

Once familiarity overcomes fear, though, you will like the bitter gourd, say fans of the unsightly vegetable -- a group that is growing daily. Proponents of the gourd's health benefits claim the warty skin becomes an interesting texture and the bitter taste takes on a refreshing zest, making nigauri a delicious part of any summer menu.

Native to tropical Asia, the plant, known as nigauri in Japanese and goya in Okinawan, was first introduced into Japan via China in the 16th century. For a long time, however, farmers on the mainland grew it only to shade their gardens from the sun, and its usage as a foodstuff was limited to southern Kyushu and Okinawa, where the hot summer weather caused a lack of other locally grown green vegetables.