It is interesting to follow the drinking culture of Japan. In times when "Japaneseness" is being emphasized, sales of "Nihon-shu" (sake) and "shochu" (an indigenous distilled beverage that uses a variety of things that will ferment but mainly sweet potatoes) tend to increase. Beer is seldom affected by statistics. It is international while being considered Japanese, and although beer-making had to be learned from the West, Japanese brands have now become international favorites. Scotch and more recently bourbon have enjoyed considerable popularity especially for gift giving, although these stronger beverages are rarely the choice of the average man -- or woman -- who wants a convivial evening after work. They would be more likely to order a modern, smoother shochu mixed with various fruity drinks, or sake brewed to be served cold, a choice that has sake makers smiling again after a depressing period when people tended to prefer imported beverages. Cold sake will likely find more acceptance in the West. Sake's popularity in Japan is closely linked to the warming effects of the fumes, the heated cup and the hot drink, which have long been on a par with the "ofuro" (bath) for warming the body in rooms unaccustomed to automatic year-round temperature control, which is so common in the West. Now sake can be a summer drink, too.

Wine continues to count increasing sales, and discriminating Japanese have learned that good wines can come not only from France, but from all over the world. France first had to acknowledge California wines as established competitors. Now wine shops display labels from almost everywhere. Fortunately, the demand continues to expand so there is a market niche for each.

But wine in the Momoyama era? And with the tea ceremony? Now that's a mind-expanding thought, but there is evidence that in those early days wine was sometimes served at "ocha no yu" gatherings. The limited choice was Madera, the source being the early Portuguese, who brought far more than Christianity to Japan. Evidence of this early internationalization is now being shown at the new Saita Museum in Setagaya Ward near Setagaya Daita station on the Odakyu line out of Shinjuku. The Saita family has been very much involved with tea. In fact, in Meiji days tea grown at their Setagaya estate was exported from Yokohama to countries around the world. A museum was established by the present Saito generation to exhibit the collection of family treasures. These include many books dating back to the earliest days of tea ceremony, along with tea bowls and other tea essentials as well as art works that are appropriate for display at a tea gathering. Museum curator Mayumi Kagiya, who previously was curator at the exceptional but now closed Azabu Museum of Arts and Crafts, speaks English and will be happy to answer questions. Phone (03) 3414-1006 for information.