Now it can be told. When I first came to Japan, I didn't believe in yakuza .

Yes, I had seen Robert Mitchum and Ken Takakura wipe out a whole nest of them in their 1975 action film "The Yakuza," but left the theater that night trembling more with laughter than fear. Truncated pinkies? Full-body tattoos? C'mon! It sounded like some screenwriter was wearing his hat too tight.

So in my mind I banished Japanese gangsters to the same never-never land as other fabulous but fabled creatures, like mermaids, winged monkeys and truthful politicians. This despite the warnings of my Japanese bride, who persistently told me, "The yakuza will get you if you don't watch out!"