A recent trip to the ski slopes of Niigata brought home the consequences of the 40 million visitors expected in Japan in 2025: The gigantic suitcases blocking my way on the shinkansen; the overworked staff in Japanese hotels; the buses held up interminably by tourists unaware of how to pay and unable to ask.
Small inconveniences like these are stacking up in a country that has rapidly become one of the world’s premier tourism destinations. Having lived for nearly 15 years in Shibuya — home to the famed Scramble Crossing where every new arrival is seemingly required by international law to take a picture — I have a keener sense than most of the change tourism has wrought.
Yes, tourists crowd out some of my favorite restaurants and bars, letting their kids run around in a manner no self-respecting Japanese parent would allow. Yes, people stop for selfies in the middle of the crossing, impeding the flow of an intersection that’s used by half a million people a day.
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