Taisei Hikage is fighting a losing battle at his Tokyo ramen shop — not to attract customers, but to keep a lid on the price he charges for the national comfort food in the face of an incessant rise in ingredient and fuel costs.

Since opening his shop in the west of the capital a year and a half ago, Hikage, 26, has raised menu prices three times but still struggles with rising costs. His top-selling "Special Ramen" is up 47%, selling for ¥1,250 ($8).

"Traditionally ramen shops were supposed to offer something cheap and tasty," Hikage said between stirring big pots of broth and blanching noodles. "It's no longer cheap food for the masses."