Robbie Swinnerton - The Japan Times

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Oct 12, 2000

Cardenas Charcoal Grill: Californian fare grilled to perfection

Fumihiro Nakamura does not affect the expansive personality and well-studied bonhomie of a born restaurateur in the classic European mold. Nor does he in any way exude the slick professionalism and marketing savvy of the streetwise MBAs who scheme up and preside over flash designer eateries for cash-flush...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Oct 12, 2000

Californian fare grilled to perfection

Fumihiro Nakamura does not affect the expansive personality and well-studied bonhomie of a born restaurateur in the classic European mold. Nor does he in any way exude the slick professionalism and marketing savvy of the streetwise MBAs who scheme up and preside over flash designer eateries for cash-flush...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Sep 28, 2000

Trendy slurping in Azabu-Juban

All things must pass -- especially, it seems, the good stuff. So a final farewell, then, to the old Azabu-Juban we used to know and love, with its funky, friendly mom 'n' pop stores, cheap nomiya and overpriced wine bars, and its faintly musty smells of onsen and kimchi.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Sep 14, 2000

Hannibal: Tunisian flavors in Shin-Okubo

Don't roll up at Hannibal with ideas about mysterious Middle Eastern souks, exotic belly dancers or desert caravansaries. Nor should you expect ancient classical motifs and provender of Punic proportions. Just forget you ever saw the movie "Casablanca" (and don't even mention "The Silence of the Lambs")....

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Sep 14, 2000

Tunisian flavors in Shin-Okubo

Don't roll up at Hannibal with ideas about mysterious Middle Eastern souks, exotic belly dancers or desert caravansaries. Nor should you expect ancient classical motifs and provender of Punic proportions. Just forget you ever saw the movie "Casablanca" (and don't even mention "The Silence of the Lambs")....

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Aug 24, 2000

Al fresco evenings in Heisei style

Just when you feel it's safe to venture out of the air conditioning to enjoy a drink or three in the mellow evening air of the late summer, that's about the time most beer gardens are starting to think about shutting down for the year.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Aug 10, 2000

Spicing up life on the Shonan coast

This is hardly the most obvious name for an Indian restaurant. It started life some four years ago as a friendly little Bengal-accented cafe-restaurant in the back streets on the other side of the station, quickly making a name for itself as a reliable spot for authentic Indian cooking. Then three months...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jul 27, 2000

Obana: Heat got you down? Eel thyself

Obana is certainly not the most illustrious of Tokyo's unagi restaurants. How could it be when most of the flash money lies west of the Ginza, not up in blue-collar Arakawa-ku? But there are plenty of people, especially those of humbler birth, who will go to the grave swearing by the name of their ancestors...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jul 13, 2000

Giang's, Cyclo: Far away, yet so close to Hanoi

It's getting to be that time of year when it feels as if this part of Japan has been towed down to Southeast Asia and temporarily moored somewhere in the Mekong Delta. If only that were so. For us it's not the muggy weather and tropical downpours that we complain about -- it's the dearth of creative,...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Jun 8, 2000

Fresh innovations at home in Tsukiji

Urban dining myth number one: The closer you eat to Tsukiji, the better quality the fish must be.

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

May 25, 2000

On a culinary cruise in Akasaka

We have numerous restaurants which bear the name of their chefs, owners or svengalis. But Denis Allemand is perhaps the first to proudly boast the name of the man responsible for its interior design -- whose main work in Japan up to now has been producing deli-diners in airport departure lobbies for...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

May 11, 2000

French with a difference

We have no shortage of bargain-basement French-accented bistros scattered around the metropolis. But for my money, Tete-a-tete is the cream of the current crop. I could reel off about a dozen cogent reasons why I rate this little place so highly. But there's only one that you really need to know -- it...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Apr 27, 2000

Ohmatsuya: Down on the farm, just off the Ginza

You could call Ohmatsuya rustic -- but only in the most Ginza sense of the word. It sits just one floor above the brand-name bustle of the street, inside a modern multistory building little different from any others occupying that premium patch of real estate. Step inside, however, and you could have...

LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE

Apr 13, 2000

Bangkok's never too far away

You can't get authentic Thai food in Tokyo south of Kabukicho -- at least that's what the conventional wisdom would have us believe. Indeed, as with any such sweeping generalization, there's a kernel of truth to it -- as long as what you're after is hawker food that's rough but ever ready, gentle on...

LIFE / Food & Drink

Mar 23, 2000

In the realm of the culinary senses

Some people celebrate the cherry-blossom season in doggedly internationalist mode: Aoyama cemetery or the Tamagawa embankment; a few bottles of bubbly with cheese and crackers; maybe even some beluga roe if they're feeling flush. Others prefer to stagger down the well-worn path of traditionalism: Ueno...

LIFE / Food & Drink

Mar 9, 2000

No stereotypes in 'the House of Weeds'

So you think Korean food is all smoky yakiniku, meat-laden stews and fiery, spicy kimchi? That's a bit like saying Chinese people eat nothing but ramen and gyoza; or that Thai cuisine begins and ends with tom yam kung. Or that there's nothing to eat in Japan except sushi, tempura and sukiyaki.

LIFE / Food & Drink

Feb 24, 2000

Italian home cooking from a solo artist

It's always depressing when news comes in that another good restaurant has bitten the dust. In the past month we've found out that two of the best (in their own ways) have given up the ghost. So it was with not a little trepidation that we hiked off into nether Ebisu to see if our long-time favorite...

LIFE / Food & Drink

Feb 10, 2000

Whiter than white, cooler than cool

You can't miss Rokko An. It's the flash new place in Nishi-Azabu with the brilliant white concrete facade, on the left as you wend your way down toward Hiroo. From dusk till 4 in the morning it gleams out from a long, low picture-window right across Gaien Nishi-dori from (and totally in contrast with)...

LIFE / Food & Drink

Jan 27, 2000

Culinary fire power, Szechwan style

They've never been big on central heating over in the Middle Kingdom. In rural Sichuan, when the icy winter gales blow in from across the Gobi desert, there's only one prescription for keeping the cold at bay: spicy food -- especially the fiery local hotpots -- at regular intervals and in generous quantities....

LIFE / Food & Drink

Jan 13, 2000

Come in from out of the cold

Finally we can put behind us the Christmas leftovers and the Hogmanay hangovers (not to mention the Y2chaos that never was) and assume some semblance of normality. Don't get the wrong idea -- we certainly put away our fair share of mince pies and Gaultier-clad millennial champagne over the holidays....

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