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Robbie Swinnerton
Robbie Swinnerton has been living, eating and writing about food in Tokyo for over 30 years. His column, Tokyo Food File, has run in The Japan Times since 1998.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 19, 2006
Beacon: Power dining that shines
The stock market's up and ditto consumer spending. Real estate is rebounding and there's even talk of another bubble. No surprise then that we've been seeing plenty of upmarket restaurants opening in recent months. Better still, some of our favorite restaurateurs are getting into the action.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 5, 2006
Ukai Toriyama: Time to head for the hills
Sunlight filters through fresh young foliage, dappling mossy thatched roofs. On the hills above, the wind sighs through stands of pine. In the background, birdsong and the constant trickling of a mountain stream; outside our wood-framed window, blossom floats on the surface of a placid pond. Spring has...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 21, 2006
L'Artemis: Panache and great value on a plate
Picture this. A substantial fillet of salmon fills the center of the plate, its flesh glinting a delicate pink and adorned with a dab of sour cream and a frond of dill. To one side a small mound of lightly steamed spring vegetables: young peas still in their pods; nanohana (rape greens); a thin wedge...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 7, 2006
Ryuan, Kaikaiya: izakaya mood swings
We were in the mood for eating Japanese -- nothing too fancy, but somewhere modern, with a sense of style, to match the elevated state engendered by strolling under the Meguro-gawa blossoms. We couldn't get into our favorite watering holes alongside the river. So we decided to try our luck at Ryuan [formerly...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 17, 2006
It's time to get healthy
The mirror does not lie, and nor do the bathroom scales. All that rich, stick-to-the-ribs winter food has inevitably stuck to the waistline too, leaving us sluggish and out of balance. So now, with the ume (plum) in bloom and spring nigh, it seems like the right moment to take stock, lighten up the diet and shed a few kilos. Time to get back in balance.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 3, 2006
Spice with style on the side
[NOTE: Poivrier has closed.]
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 17, 2006
Casa Vecchia: Good local fare with uncommon flair
A trattoria is by definition a neighborhood institution, usually a small, family-run affair with modest prices and few pretensions, serving down-home cooking for a local clientele. Casa Vecchia fits that description perfectly.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 10, 2006
Shaping 'neo-classic' cuisine
It is a measure of Tokyo's hidden depths that many of its top restaurants remain so little known, at least among the city's expatriate population. That is certainly the case with L'Osier. Founded in 1973, it established its heavyweight reputation under French master chef Jacques Borie, winning a devoted...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 3, 2006
Kuro-hitsuji: Ghengis Khan gets hip
Until recently, the distinctive style of cooking mutton known as jingisukan -- the Japanese transliteration of the name of a well known Mongolian butcher -- was thought far too uncouth to be considered seriously. So how did this coarse, blue-collar dish, so long a staple of smoky grills in the godless...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jan 20, 2006
Cicada: That Mediterranean buzz
Readers of this column over the past seven years will be well aware of our abiding love of the food and wine of the western Mediterranean. Anyone who has eaten his or her way around Spain will understand. From the seafood of Galicia and the Basque coast to the sherry, tapas and superb hams of Andalucia,...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jan 6, 2006
Kanda Matsuya: pick your century of soba
New Year in Japan brings with it all manner of ritual and circumstance. Observing the first sunrise. The all-important hatsumode shrine visit. Receiving (and assessing) nenga greetings. Perhaps even the sipping of otoso, the medicinal-tasting sake that guarantees health throughout the next 12 months....
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 16, 2005
A few more before we go
It's always the same story: So many restaurants, so much great food, so little time. The Food File never has enough columns in a year to feature all of the excellent places we've enjoyed over the past 12 months. So, quickly, before we get sidetracked on pouring the mulled wine and carving the turkey,...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 9, 2005
Standing firm for tradition
Akitaya is no gourmet dining destination. The food is basic, the sake cheap. Clouds of oily smoke billow out from a blackened, grease-encrusted charcoal grill onto the sidewalk, where customers huddle around tables fashioned from upturned beer crates.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 2, 2005
Gordon Ramsay at Conrad Tokyo: Haute cuisine with altitude
Aside from some road-laying and cosmetic work, the bristling high-rises of the Shiodome complex are complete. It's a brutal, soulless landscape on an inhuman scale. There's only one thing that can tempt us along those sterile walkways and mazelike underpasses: the promise of fine dining. And no one does...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 18, 2005
Banrekiryukodo: Simple alchemy works wonders
The ikebana alcove in the clattering, bustling train station; the Shinto shrine on the roof of a high-rise office building; a bonsai pine outside a garish love hotel: Tokyo throws up juxtapositions of this unlikely sort at every turn. So it comes as no surprise whatsoever to find contemporary ryori at...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 4, 2005
Shunju Tsugihagi: Perfection in the mix
No restaurants in Tokyo have done more to shape the aesthetic of contemporary Japanese dining than the Shunju group. Over the past 20 years, their trademark synthesis of cutting-edge design -- the work of Shunju's founder and creative genius, Takashi Sugimoto -- with a cosmopolitan take on traditional...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 21, 2005
Les Vinum: Wine and BBQ in wafu style
Wine with Japanese cuisine? We've never been convinced. In theory, all that seafood should find the perfect match with a crisp Chablis, Condrieu or unoaked Chardonnay. But when sip comes to gulp, we'll always prefer a ginjo or yamahai sake to accompany our sashimi, sukiyaki or tempura.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 7, 2005
Kumazawa Brewing Company: Brews worth the trip
Drink locally, eat bountifully: It's a rule of thumb that has served us very well over the years in Japan. Places that specialize in good nihonshu invariably serve food of similar quality. So it would stand to reason that, if a brewer of fine jizake were to open its own restaurant, then the results would...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 16, 2005
Negiya Heikichi: Peace of mind can be yours, even in Shibuya
Looking for a peaceful, adult place to eat in central Shibuya is about as easy as finding a street without a karaoke box. So when you come across the understated, almost quaintly retro entrance to Negiya Heikichi, in a back street close to Tokyu Hands, it seems too good to be true.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 2, 2005
Brasserie Bec: Bet you wished you lived nearby
Good food, cooked well and touched with creativity; a comfortable setting, attentive service and honest prices. Whether it's haute cuisine or a ramen shack, those are our criteria for satisfaction. Location counts for nothing: Often the best value for money is to be found well away from the bright lights,...

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