In Italy, they say, all roads lead to Rome. But in Tokyo's Jinbocho district there's a quiet pedestrian alley that now faces squarely toward Milan and the innovative restaurant there run by Japanese chef Yoji Tokuyoshi. The reason? Alter Ego, his eagerly awaited first project back in his homeland, is up and running, and it's brilliant.
Tokuyoshi's path to this point has been long and circuitous. In 2004, he set off to Italy eager to imbibe as much culinary wisdom as possible. Almost by chance he ended up at Osteria Francescana in Modena, where he worked under chef Massimo Bottura, now world-renowned but then little-known. After the best part of a decade, he left to set up his own self-named restaurant, winning a Michelin star within a year for his refined but idiosyncratic take on Italian cuisine.
Finally, after 15 years away, he has now made his move in Japan. But Alter Ego is not merely a clone of his operation in Milan. For a start, he himself will not be in the kitchen. The chef in charge here — indeed, you could say Tokuyoshi's alter ego — is Hidehito Hirayama, his right-hand man for the past three years.