The mercury has dropped and the nights are getting longer. As the temperature plummets so does the need for culinary sophistication. Filigree garnishes, amusingly carved vegetables and light bonito broths frankly no longer cut it. To put it another way: December is less about yuzu-infused shoyu, and more about meat-pie-infused face.

When you start to feel the warm draw of comfort food, look to Belgium, the home of moules frites, mussels in a pot served with french fries. Fragrant with herbs and doused liberally in butter, with the reassuring warmth of those fluffy chips, it's a dish that seems to have been invented to fend off chilly fogs. Just take the top off that hot, steamy pot of mussels and let those buttery vapors fill your nostrils.

Belgian cooking has always been about comfort. And while the old cliche of French quality and German portions broadly holds, for my money, the Belgians outdo the French in multiple ways. Take rib-sticking Flemish carbonnade. It's basically beef bourguignon with dark beer instead of wine, which is pure genius. Then there's chicons au gratin, rustic ham-wrapped chicory blanketed in bechamel sauce and melted cheese. Potato gratin's got nothing on it. And we haven't even started on the golden waffles or the beer.